Chef Nate created five extraordinary courses that were paired with wines from Capital Wines and Spirits.

The month of February saw another great wine dinner here at the Mercer Grille. The flavors of the Mediterranean were the inspiration for the food, and we selected wines from Italy, Greece, and Spain to compliment. From first pour to last bite, a good time was had all around.
As I thought out this month’s menu it became clear a theme was beginning to emerge. Maybe it was my growing disdain for Pennsylvania winters, or that I had just finished reading Michael Psilakis’s cook book on Greek food, but my recipes all seemed to have origin in the Mediterranean. Once the theme found itself naturally, it was time to find some good juice to match this food. This month our wine came from our extremely knowledgeable and helpful purveyor, Amy Henry. Upon receiving the menu she set to task on finding a few options for each course for our General Manager and me to taste. This is always the fun part. With food and wine finalized, anticipation grew and soon the night was upon us.
A great turn out arrived, on time I might add, and took their seats. After thoughtful introduction by Teresa, our General Manager, Amy greeted our guests with foretelling stories of the wines to come. I began plating the first course, and off we went.
The first dish of the night saw tender, oregano laced, lamb meatballs or abondegas on a pool of light cilantro pesto made with toasted pine nuts, Greek olive oil, a little garlic and some Manchego cheese. More toasted pine nuts garnished the plate to add a little texture, the finishing touch was a final drizzle of the light fruity Greek olive oil. The dish was extremely well received, much to my pleasure as I have also added this dish to our bar menu. Cutting through the fat of the lamb and matching the fruit of the olive oil was a wonderful Italian Anthilia Bianca from Donnafugata’s 2008 vintage. Its crisp acidity and slight mineral and fruit undertones went over better than any of us could have imagined.

A light, palate cleansing cucumber salad, followed the lamb relying heavily on the same Greek flavors. Local greenhouse cucumbers, once peeled and sliced, were marinated simply in rice vinegar, salt, cilantro and a little sugar. Plating space was shared with cubes of salty imported Feta, Greek yogurt, black pepper and a tomato jam. The Greek style yogurt I made by allowing locally made, plain yogurt to sit in cheesecloth and drain in my walk-in cooler. The tomato jam, a cooked combination of diced vine ripened tomatoes, water, vinegar, salt and sugar added sweetness as well as a bright pop of color. The cracked black pepper garnished the plate and added subtlety underlying warmth. The wine matched to this course was a light Moschofilero from the Skouras winery in Greece. Its vintage was 2008. The acidity of the wine contrasted perfectly with the sugar of the tomato jam, and matched the acid of the marinated cucumbers as well.


The next course featured a fish requested by a regular wine dinner attendee. Patagonian Toothfish, or Chilean Sea Bass, was carefully sourced due to it’s classification as a fish to avoid by the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s seafood watch list. The list profiles the sustainability and level of overfishing of seafood species and classifies them as Best Choice, Good Alternative and Avoid. After assurances that this sea bass was line caught as apposed to net caught, which can lead to by-catch that is often killed and wasted, and was not poached but rather caught by a licensed fisher, I succumbed to the request. I marinated the fish in a light dry rub of ground coriander
seed and baked it gently in low oven. The fish was accompanied by an eggplant curry and a puree of roasted red and hot peppers. The plate was finished with a bit of Grecian sea salt. With the deep flavors of the eggplant curry and roasted peppers, this fish was matched nicely, but not overpowered, by a light Spanish Tempranillo from the 2007 vintage of The Flying Wine Maker Winery. Dark fruits and light notes of pepper married well with the firm white fish.


Spanish slow cooking was met with a little French bistro in the fourth dish. Slow braised Pennsylvanian pork shoulder from Leidy’s in Souderton, PA was tossed with fresh serrano chilies and rolled in a light French savory crepe. Topping the crepe was a spicy chili verde sauce of simmered poblano and serrano chilies, tomatillos and braising liquid from the pork. El Burro Kickass Winery of Spain made the full bodied, almost jammy Garnacha from 2007. The underlying sweetness cut through the spice and brought the fruity aspects of chilies (actually fruit themselves) in the sauce.



A great ending to the nights meal, lukimaides or Greek doughnuts were served dusted in cinnamon and paired with house made honey walnut ice cream, in a nod to the classic flavors of Grecian desserts such as baklava. No sugar was added to the ice cream, only Van Morrison’s lyrical confection, Tupelo honey. A textural enhancement and deep nuttiness came from the ice cream’s toasted walnuts. Quite possibly the highlight of the night’s wine was the pairing for dessert. Italy lent one of its delicately sweet wines, Moscato D’Asti from the Michele Chiarlo Nivole Winery’s 2008 collection. Slight carbonation fizzled through the richness of the doughnut and notes of honey were present to match the ice cream.



Smiling diners were the marker of the night’s success. I enjoyed this menu and the company of those in attendance. March will bring a somewhat different format, a Beer Tasting Dinner. The flavors of Old Europe and updated versions of classic beer food will set the mood for a night of hops and gastronomy. Be sure to get in touch with us to reserve your seat, as they fill up fast. See you there!
Chef Nate

February 25th, 2010 by Nate | 8 Comments »